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Spiderbeam 'maiden' outing: Observations (and a question or two!)
OK,
Cracked out the Spiderbeam for the first time today, gimbal, camera and all.
Setup:
a) 60ft Spiderbeam + quadpod
b). Photoshipone 3X gimbal
c) Canon 500D EOS DLSR (with kit lens)
d) 60ft USB firewire
e) Futaba 7 channel tx/rx/battery
f) PS Remote software
Questions:
1. Quadpod
As you can see in one of the attachments, the lower spokes on the quadpod that the Spiderbeam threads through are badly angled. The ground was slightly inclined, therefore two of the quadpod legs were extended slightly further out than the other two.
Is there a way to level this off so that the actual mast beam can go straight up from the ground? There were some worrying 'squeak' noises from this part of the quadpod as if the screws were too tight. It's awkward to describe but the sounds are worrying.
2. Guy plates and clamps
Do any other S-Beam owners have issues with the guy plates/bush bearings getting in the way of the mast section clamps? Needed two people to manage it today. Because I am not sure yet where I want to guy the beam, I have left all 4 guy plates on for now. I found that these became a complete nuisance when trying to clamp the mast sections.
[B]Would it be possible for someone to post the 'order' that the clamps, guy plates and bush bearings come in from top to bottom, just as a check? (e.g. clamp, clamp, plate, bush, clamp...) I presume that the bush bearings do not sit on clamps but on the top of the mast section below it. It'll be simpler once only one guy plate/bush is on there I'm sure.
Observations:
1. Very, very happy with all of the equipment listed above. The S-Beam and PS1 gimbal feel rock solid which is obviously the main consideration when you're putting it up for the first time! Wireless clearly would have its advantages but firewire works well for now.
2. Cam handles or screws for clamping the mast sections would be highly beneficial (see question 2 above). The allen key is OK but awkward.
3. Don't have complete faith in angling the camera straight up or down for nadir and zenith shots. The single camera screw from the bottom doesn't fill me with a huge amount of faith. Will probably find something to strap it on for added security.
All in all, immensely satisfying experience! Put it up about 25 feet (or whatever 4 sections is) and got a pretty sweet cylindrical panorama out of it. Have to say, 60 feet is a long way up but I suppose that ultimately, you've got to trust your own vigilance and the equipment to keep everything secure.
Thanks for all the help up until this point, this forum and its base of contributors really is superb.
I won't attempt to answer all your questions (it is 3:51am here ) but here is something to get you started
Set the angles of the quadpod legs to be the same, and then adjust the verticality of the mast by changing the length of the appropriate legs. Hint: double check the tightness of all bolts before use, don't ask me how I know
For a safety strap, go to your local fishing tackle store and pick up some coated steel trace wire, which comes with tiny crimps, and some hook catches (hard to describe but they are designed to allow attachment of hooks without needing knots). Build up a strap about 10-12 inches long (squeezing the crimps with pliers), attach one end to the mount and the other to your camera's wrist strap fitting.
This must be Spiderbeam week. Just got mine (60 ft) in yesterday and will probably play with it this weekend. Still waiting for the gimbal - should have that Tuesday.
I have a similar setup with the Canon 500D camera, kit lens, Sigma 10-20 and breeze software. I started out with the Bescor MP101 head which I'm sure I'll want to replace fairly soon. I bought the knobs which are better than the allen screws but somewhere on this site someone has handles that look pretty good. Need to track them down.
I was going to get the same gimbal as yours, but didn't want to purchase all the extras to make it work. Right now the Bescor gets me in the air.
Don't know whether I'm just getting old and weak but this sucker is just heavy. I think a dolly or some kind of portable transport is in order.
My observation is that although you get what you pay for, and the Spiderbeam seems to be a good value for the money, some of the tolerances could be tighter. There seems to be a lot of slop where the mast goes through tripod plates. Not a big deal that a little shimming can't take care of. The tripod that comes with it seems somewhat flimsy so I'm going to see if I can build some kind of vehicle mount that will work without a lot of trouble.
Looking forward to hearing what you come up with concerning the Guy Wire plates. I got two sets with my order and am guessing one was put in by mistake or else I'm thoroughly confused. I'm thinking 1 or 2 plates at the most should do the trick.
Good luck on your new setup and will keep an eye open seeing how it's going for you.
By the way - I'm a new member here and have to say this is one of the best forums I've encountered online. Great people, great ideas and freely offered tips and advice. Not paranoid like in some forums. Thanks so much everyone.
To answer Malcolms question about guys, yes the bearing goes on top of a mast section and under the guy fixing.
Yes it does make it more awkward to operate the mast which is why I only use one guying point, about 2/3 up my mast.
To answer Jays question on weight, the weight durinng vertical deployment (nearly said erection, oops said it!) much of the apparent weight comes from internal friction. Pull your s/beam apart, clean the tubes inside and out with a dry rag to remove any dust or swarf (tie a rope to the rag and pull it through the tube like you would a gun barrel).
Once cleaned, lubricate each tube with a silicon spray lubricant, it's a dry lube that wont attract dust and put you back where you started .
Also to comabt friction ensure that your clamps are slack enough to allow the next section to slide easily. Also consider glueing the clamps in place (being very careful to not glue the mast sections together) and replace the allen bolts with wheel type fixings or better still, cam handles.
For transporting it around a shoot site I use this, cheap, simple effective and all I need in a simple to move package, big box with camera, pant/tilt, computer, usb lead etc, mast and small stepladder on the cart.
__________________ If there's a better way, find it. Thomas Alva Edison.
Further to the advice from Overviews on cleaning your mast, an ideal lube is called Mclube, which is silicone spray designed for smoother sliding of yacht sails in their aluminium tracks. Works a treat! http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/3761-h...am-mclube.html
Further to the advice from Overviews on cleaning your mast, an ideal lube is called Mclube, which is silicone spray designed for smoother sliding of yacht sails in their aluminium tracks. Works a treat! http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/3761-h...am-mclube.html
Nice one Tony
It should also be available in car spares shops, sometimes sold as "new car smell spray" (the manufacturers use silcon to free the plastics from the molds.
Car detailers use it to make your car smell like new again.
Steve
__________________ If there's a better way, find it. Thomas Alva Edison.
Just so you know, I've designed and manufacture upgrade parts that replace the upper and lower yokes on your mast assembly. These new parts incorporate a "pinch" type system which does not mar the outer tube surface. This assembly also uses knobs, instead of SHCS or set screws, which when used over time will permanately scar the outer tube section of your mast. Plus, since my system utilizes a "pinch" type clamp assembly, the yoke is held perpendicular to the mast surface, which keeps the legs perfectly aligned with each other. This means, no more shifting of the yoke assembly.
My observation is that although you get what you pay for, and the Spiderbeam seems to be a good value for the money, some of the tolerances could be tighter. There seems to be a lot of slop where the mast goes through tripod plates. Not a big deal that a little shimming can't take care of. The tripod that comes with it seems somewhat flimsy so I'm going to see if I can build some kind of vehicle mount that will work without a lot of trouble.
Jay, the 'slop', if I've interpreted what you've said above correctly, is removed by fitting the two screws into the quadpod plates. If you've not lost the rubber grommets (oops!), they will tighten the mast into place. Hope that makes sense. I've found with the Spiderbeam that whenever I've spotted a potential design flaw, I've actually been in the wrong myself, for whatever reason. The quadpod/tripod, remarkably, feels more rigid once it is actually set up and the legs are fully extended. The mast really doesn't feel like it will budge it.
Tony, good advice as ever on the quadpod assembly, camera fastener and the mast lubricant. Even at 4 sections, the back muscles were really starting to tighten, so a worthwhile purchase no doubt. I was thinking of using a very thin luggage-style strap for the camera, although it could possibly interfere with the 'mode' dial on the Canon.
Steve, you really do have the mast design down to a T! It must be a dream to operate. Gluing the mast clamps into place would definitely save a lot of hassle. I found yesterday that there was a lot of unnecessary loosening and tightening of clamps as they slid further up the mast than they should be. Mind, I don't think the extra guy plates helped things.
Where can I buy these, and will they also fit the 12 metre Spiderbeam? (3" OD on the bottom tube)
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTAS-USA
Malcolm,
Just so you know, I've designed and manufacture upgrade parts that replace the upper and lower yokes on your mast assembly. These new parts incorporate a "pinch" type system which does not mar the outer tube surface. This assembly also uses knobs, instead of SHCS or set screws, which when used over time will permanately scar the outer tube section of your mast. Plus, since my system utilizes a "pinch" type clamp assembly, the yoke is held perpendicular to the mast surface, which keeps the legs perfectly aligned with each other. This means, no more shifting of the yoke assembly.
I custom build the mast collars per order. Each collar set is matched to your individual mast assembly. Since tubing wall thickness varies, I prefer that an exact measurement is taken of the outer tube section, then building in .010" clearance. I also like to confirm concentricity as well, using the high number as the major diameter. Once I have all of this information, I program the CNC mill to interpolate the proper bore size. Down time is approximately one week (seven days)
First - Everyone, thanks so much for the help and great ideas.
(1) Purchased the McLube SailKote - will apply that this weekend. (2)Got a hand truck (dolly) - that does make a difference.
Couple of questions - as far as gluing the clamps to the mast- is there a special glue you would recommend. I have some J B Weld was thinking of using. Also, would putting a spot of glue on the side of the mast opposite the turn handle be the spot to use. Or better yet could you describe what you've done.
Also I notice a lot of people say that most of the time they never use over 30'. My mast is 60' and was thinking with some simple tripod insert/sleeve I could take off some sections, lighten the load, and still use the tripod. I found a product in Home Depot that fits the tripod perfectly and allows me to use the smaller diameter tube. Still can get 35'. Drilled a couple of holes in the inserts and now have an easy to use 35' that can be converted back to 60' in just a couple of minutes. Part is a PVC drain connector. Outside dia. is 3-5/16 and inside is 2-5/16 - perfect fit for my tubes. I'm sure OTAS's product is far superior but I'm financially challenged at the moment and this works.
After all of that - do you think it's more trouble than it's worth or just better off leaving the mast at 60' ? For me - 63 years old with gimpy arm - lighter is better.
One other tidbit for what it's worth. I used to foilstamp 3 ring binders and had some polyelthylene binder scraps around. I found that a piece about 1" wide x 10" long makes a great sleeve between the mast and tripod. Slippery plastic, almost indestructible and takes out the slop between the mast and tripod. You can probably find a poly binder in Office Depot for $2-$3 dollars.
Once again guys - thanks so much for your help. Great forum thanks to you.
Spiderbeam 'maiden' outing: Observations (and a question or two!)
) but here is something to get you started
.
) and replace the allen bolts with wheel type fixings or better still, cam handles.
Linear Mode
